|
Post by Christian Challiner on Dec 4, 2016 15:06:34 GMT -5
I've put my stats in. I'll do the setups tomorrow. Christian Challiner - one thing I couldn't find easily is drivers championship won - is there somewhere obvious to find it or do you need to o thru the results? I just did it off results. At the time i'd won nothing so it was easy Actually won my first Drivers and Teams championship this morning I've actually found that it seems more beneficial to just keep developing parts like crazy which have loads of performance headroom. That way you can build 4 parts which start off 'ok' but which can be developed an extra 50 or something without anymore cost. Likewise, reliability higher than 80 seems sortiof wasted unless you're running your engine in super overtake the whole time. Oh and lastly, never let tyres drop below 25%, performance drops off a cliff once they hit that point.
|
|
|
Post by Christian Challiner on Dec 4, 2016 17:30:38 GMT -5
Oh also, you can input in the sponsor tab too I've limited it to 'fixed' payment sponsors only for now. Mainly just because they can actually be 'measured' whereas the bonus payouts are a bit more variable and depend a lot on your situation I feel. It's easy enough to enter info, just put the name, upfront payout, per race payout, number of races and 'star' rating in and it will calculate out the effective per race payout for you.
|
|
|
Post by John "Badoer" King on Dec 4, 2016 18:24:46 GMT -5
OK I'll add to the sponsor tab as well.
The total key is to develop parts as fast as you can - next years car parts start at the highest level you had the previous year so you want to be as high as you can at the end of the year - so keep developing right to the end of the season. But, make sure the performance of the part is maxed out - it's the actual performance of the part that's used.
I used a no 1 - no 2 driver system and develop parts basically for the no 1 driver - the no 2 gets whatever's left. As long as their contract says they're no 2 (or reserve) they don't mind coming down the field most of the time.
Also, don't bother with the Scouting facility - the running costs are massive and all it gives you is extra choice on driver but there's plenty anyway. Find a young 2 star driver with potential and recruit them - it's way cheaper.
|
|
|
Post by Joe "Ironlung" Kirsch on Dec 5, 2016 8:36:38 GMT -5
I'll post my stats soon. I possibly made a mistake by starting in the Asian Cup after two seasons. Let's see
|
|
|
Post by John "Badoer" King on Dec 5, 2016 20:01:43 GMT -5
I've updated my stats and also entered the setups. A couple of notes on these: 1) I've put "Very poor" in the 1st feedback column for the tracks I haven't noted the Track config. I'll fix these as I go along 2) I've changed the column size in my tab so I can see all the setup columns on my small 2nd screen. It makes the rest hard to see but just change them back again if you need to Christian Challiner the Gearing / Suspension columns confused the crap out of me. If you read from left to right (as you've done with the others), gearing should come 1st! My current status: I finished 3rd in teams/drivers in WMC last season and it will probably be the same again this season. Basically Mercedes and Ferrari (sorry, Steinmann and Rossini) are way too fast. I easily beat everyone else and I'm getting closer to them. Just had my 1st WMC race win - a wet/dry/wet race where my more careful approach paid off. The refuelling rules in place for WMC for me make tactics harder - it's an 80% tank so the other teams seem to put full tanks in and run in overtake mode most of the time. No matter what I do I lose places like crazy in the 1st couple of laps. A couple of bugs / hassles to watch for: 1) Failed overtakes are a nightmare - you lose a shit load of speed and get gobbled up by the 2 cars behind you. So, when you're actively trying to overtake someone, use overtake engine mode AND Attack tyres mode and get the timing right 2) Getting lapped (or lapping someone) is a pain and seems to impact players cars way more than the AI. The worse example is Phoenix oval - basically just run in overtake/attack mode all the time and pit when you need to - if you do anything else you'll get lapped after about 4 laps and once you start getting lapped it's basically game over... 3) If the leader is immediately behind the safety car and then pits and loses the lead, everyone gets a wave around and you never actually catch the safety car again. So, watch out for this and unless you really need to, don't pit if this happens.
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Cardamone on Dec 5, 2016 22:07:30 GMT -5
About to win the 6 th consecutive asian championship. Leading the team standings by nearly 100pts with 3 rounds remaining. We have had 7 1-2 finishes and a 1-3 finish in forst 8 races
|
|
|
Post by Christian Challiner on Dec 5, 2016 23:04:42 GMT -5
I know John, I'll fix that I think as I realised it was confusing me too EDIT: Fixed Sorry I had to make your columns regular size, just whilst I was swapping them around. Your sheet is like super messed up though, all the formatting has junked itself!
|
|
|
Post by John "Badoer" King on Dec 6, 2016 0:22:05 GMT -5
I know John, I'll fix that I think as I realised it was confusing me too EDIT: Fixed Sorry I had to make your columns regular size, just whilst I was swapping them around. Your sheet is like super messed up though, all the formatting has junked itself! LOL - thank explains why my setup for Vancouver was for screwed - I saw the columns had resized but didn't realise you'd swapped the columns The relly interesting thing is my Ardennes set wasn't any good so I tried yours. It was better but WAY worse feedback and balance than your ones - the fine tuning really is done to the car components and the driver - my feedback between the 2 drivers is always different, sometimes by a wide margin. Anyway, done for the day now - I've got some real life stuff to do
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Cardamone on Dec 6, 2016 0:35:35 GMT -5
I know John, I'll fix that I think as I realised it was confusing me too EDIT: Fixed Sorry I had to make your columns regular size, just whilst I was swapping them around. Your sheet is like super messed up though, all the formatting has junked itself! LOL - thank explains why my setup for Vancouver was for screwed - I saw the columns had resized but didn't realise you'd swapped the columns The relly interesting thing is my Ardennes set wasn't any good so I tried yours. It was better but WAY worse feedback and balance than your ones - the fine tuning really is done to the car components and the driver - my feedback between the 2 drivers is always different, sometimes by a wide margin. Anyway, done for the day now - I've got some real life stuff to do I found from one season to the next the same driver will also want modification to the setup which was 99% optimum the season before. I found one driver may shift his setting to match his teammate in the next. So there are modifications from one season to the next
|
|
|
Post by Sven Cammaerts on Dec 6, 2016 9:11:28 GMT -5
I know John, I'll fix that I think as I realised it was confusing me too EDIT: Fixed Sorry I had to make your columns regular size, just whilst I was swapping them around. Your sheet is like super messed up though, all the formatting has junked itself! ditto with the collums, maybe you could add the collum header also on the bottom
|
|
|
Post by Sven Cammaerts on Dec 9, 2016 18:57:09 GMT -5
Made it up to the top tier by dominating my last season, multiple one two finishes. Decided to go for the promotion straight away, first things first, spending a lot into my new car I'm also about to get a different designer (i hope) to replace the current one expering, I got 5 offers out, hope someone bites I can upload a savegame from just before the promotion if someone wants
|
|
|
Post by Christian Challiner on Dec 9, 2016 19:33:06 GMT -5
Holy hell that's expensive!
What does the front and rear package adjustment change?
|
|
|
Post by Sven Cammaerts on Dec 10, 2016 9:49:26 GMT -5
you can use those to change the "estimated star rating" on the left.
Rear Package changes the balance between tire heating & improvability Nose height changes the balance between Tire wear & Fuel efficiency
|
|
|
Post by John "Badoer" King on Dec 10, 2016 10:53:44 GMT -5
OK so in Season 19 I won the drivers championship in WMC and finished 3rd in teams. Season 20 was the same but finally in Season 21 I won both. Season 22 has been a struggle - they changed the base rules and reset all the parts back to 600 so it's been a year of mad development - my factory is pretty max'ed out now - just need to build the road car and theme park. Also the test track is only at level 2 but that's because we're using stock engines so there's no point building it.
Sven - I think you might struggle - costs are super high so you need $$$ in reserve to survive the 1st year. Take the lowest target from the chairman!
|
|
|
Post by Sven Cammaerts on Dec 11, 2016 17:37:38 GMT -5
Yeah, i struggled, first race i got a 4th place with other cars falling out, so i did get a few points. second & third race were poor trying to figure out how the AI strategy changed with 80% fuel rules & tire usage.
But i lost 800k a race so i'd be pretty much ruined at the end of the season. Loaded my save again and staying abit longer in Asia I suppose. not too happy about loading the old save again, but this would have just set me back 2 seasons atleast
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Cardamone on Dec 11, 2016 19:02:38 GMT -5
Yeah, i struggled, first race i got a 4th place with other cars falling out, so i did get a few points. second & third race were poor trying to figure out how the AI strategy changed with 80% fuel rules & tire usage. But i lost 800k a race so i'd be pretty much ruined at the end of the season. Loaded my save again and staying abit longer in Asia I suppose. not too happy about loading the old save again, but this would have just set me back 2 seasons atleast Yeah i have now been 5 or 6 seasons in asia and at the point where i am making big money cause i dont have to develop car cause my parts are way better than everyone and all i am doing is improving my hq
|
|
|
Post by Stephan Spantig on Dec 24, 2016 9:49:41 GMT -5
Bought MM yesterday during Steam winter sale. Just had a quick look of 20min if it's working, will have a closer look during Christmas.
Are there any tips for starters as a summary? What do I need to do in my first season(s)? What not? FYI, I plan with either Predator or ZRT to begin with.
|
|
|
Post by Christian Challiner on Dec 24, 2016 11:09:01 GMT -5
Don't do what i did and forget that you need about 10 million at year end for your car for the following season. (You get about 13m prize money).
Develop parts as fast as you can, even if they're 'cheat' parts.
At the lowest level good drivers make a difference, if you play with ZRT try and keep Valdes, he's a dickhead but he's fast and if he leaves you'll have a hard time attracting someone as good.
Fire the reserve driver (just let contract lapse) you really don't need a reserve in my opinion and it's just extra cost for a good one so get rid of them.
Design center upgrade is kinda 'meh', you're better off upgrading the factory to level 2, that will do you good for the entire of your time in the ERS.
Engines are the most expensive item to build, i suggest you rapidly develop brakes and suspension first before developing gearboxes and engines last.
Put your mechanics to work on reliability of engines and gearboxes until they are at least 80%. You can make do with starter engines for your first season.
Always try to do the minimum number of pitstops possible unless there is rain in the race. Usually, you can do the race on a single stop with 80% tanks or 2 stops on 40% tanks.
In practice get your race trim as high as possible (lvl 3 is 15% performance boost).
Likewise, always run one tyre compound, i suggest the hardest tyres as you can tell your driver to push for longer.
Mechanic bonuses like 'lightfooted' always best the practice performance boosts. (A potent combo at this level is race trim lvl 3 and lightfooted medium tyres).
Get good drivers, i recommend shooting for 2.5 star minimum with a goal of 3 star if possible.
The designer is not so important but ones with the 'epic' bonus of -1 risk are VERY handy to have.
Race engineers, focus on bonuses, less so on other stats.
|
|
|
Post by Joseph Cardamone on Dec 24, 2016 16:04:34 GMT -5
If you are racing with predator buy good drivers and team as they will make a huge difference to a rubbish car
|
|
|
Post by Stephan Spantig on Dec 25, 2016 9:54:27 GMT -5
Christian Challiner : could you add a page for me on the MM spreadsheet in the Drive? Actually your setups for Munich helped me in race 2 already. And thanks for the tipps, guys. I will see how it goes, maybe play the first season to get to know the game mechanics and than start over again.
|
|