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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2015 21:49:28 GMT -5
www.fanatec.com/au-en/pedals/clubsport-pedals-v3-aus.htmlIMO they look nice and will be an upgrade from my G27 Pedals. I've pre ordered them. NOTE(S): All Prices listed below are subject to change. Dampers are for the Throttle and Brake Pedal (Just Skimming over the Information I understood that Damper Kit means Dampers for the Brake and Throttle but they are sold seperately. Therefor if you want a damper for throttle and brake you will have to add the price of the damper kit again. Prices: AUD$ = 380 (Without Damper Kit) 485 (With Damper Kit) USD = 295 (Without Damper Kit) 376 (With Damper Kit) EUR = 260 (Without Damper Kit) 331 (With Damper Kit) GBP = 185 (Without Damper Kit) 237.36 (With Damper Kit) JPY = 36238 (Without Damper Kit) 45774 (With Damper Kit) CAD = 362 (Without Damper Kit) 457 (With Damper Kit) CHF= 270 (Without Damper Kit) 342 (Without Damper Kit What's your opinion?
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Post by Mark "WiFI" Dyall on Jun 21, 2015 1:40:36 GMT -5
I seen this come up sometime last week from ISR on face book, looks pretty good love the adjustable brake stiffness and the rumble motors on the brake/throttle pedals. Might have to look into a set of these, shouldn't be to hard to resell if I don't them. Not sure on your prices though as I seen someone say that all up with out postage it was going to be over $650.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2015 2:08:42 GMT -5
Mine was from the website without postage. Also they probably meant with two of the Damper kits. Not sure though.
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Jun 21, 2015 2:24:04 GMT -5
Prices: EUR = 260 (Without Damper Kit) 331 (With Damper Kit) Where did you get that price tag? Atm the price is 360€ + 80€ for the damper kit. I wish the were just 260 though... I'm waiting a few days before pre-ordering.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2015 2:27:07 GMT -5
I forgot fanatec charge 20% more on euro's... I'm so stupid
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Post by Braith Morrow on Jun 22, 2015 2:47:27 GMT -5
I think i'll buy a set when i get back from Europe
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Post by Christian Challiner on Jun 22, 2015 8:22:57 GMT -5
My dad has a set of these on order with both dampers, I'll give them a go when they turn up and let you know what I think of them. Currently I use Clubsport V1's so I should be able to see a difference in theory.
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Jun 22, 2015 12:34:03 GMT -5
I think I'll get those anyway. I am curious about how load cell effects the braking and gaming experience. Can't say I am satisfied with G27 pedals, although "modded". Will be the last thing I'll upgrade my rig with. For now.
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Tommy Vandergucht
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"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car".
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Aug 11, 2015 11:56:39 GMT -5
I'm also thinking of ordering because I worked so much lately, got some extra money to spend. Christian Challiner and Stephan Spantig did you recieve yours already? Any thoughts to convince me to buy them or not? Would the damper kit be worth it and would that vibration thing on the throttle and brake also work without a Fanatec wheel?
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Aug 11, 2015 12:06:19 GMT -5
Availability is set for September 30th here. Preordered and paid, I'm just waiting for them to be released.
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Tommy Vandergucht
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"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car".
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Aug 11, 2015 12:15:44 GMT -5
Availability is set for September 30th here. Preordered and paid, I'm just waiting for them to be released. I saw some were already being shipped early on the iRacing forum, you might get them earlier .
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Post by Christian Challiner on Aug 11, 2015 13:47:37 GMT -5
Tommy my set is supposed to arrive at the end of the month, i have the V1's so i'll be able to compare.
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Post by Christian Challiner on Aug 18, 2015 12:34:15 GMT -5
Ok so I've been running my set for most of the day, will do some NiS practice now and then will start writing a review comparing them to the V1 pedals. There's good and bad things along with recommendations as to what you buy/use/etc regarding the damper options (I purchased both with mine).
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Post by Christian Challiner on Aug 18, 2015 19:16:25 GMT -5
Ok so after spending the day using the pedals and running various track/car combinations of the following: Ford Mustang FR500S - Road America Ford GT GT3 - Monza GP Sprint Cup Nascar (Gen 6) - Bristol I have come to the following conclusions with regards to the pedal set itself, how it interacts with iRacing and software such as Fanaleds and also how it compares to its predecesor the V1 Clubsport Pedals. So for starters they look excellent and the build quality is certainly superior to that of my V1 pedals. For example, my V1 pedals would exhibit some degree of noticeable lateral play due to the spacers which constrained the pivot points having rather large tolerances, this has been almost totally eliminated in the V3 pedals and the spacers themselves have a much superior finish compared to the satin look of the V1 spacers. Likewise the tolerance on the bores for the pedal plungers is superior as there is no noticeable non-axial movement of the pushrod within its bore. Another addition which I really like is the ability to manually calibrate all the pedals within the driver software and set user defined min and max values for the pedals. This was something lacking for the V1 pedals and is very handy in removing any unwanted deadzones in the pedals. This was a particular problem with my V1's where the last 10% of the travel was basically useless. Continuing the discussion with regards to adjustability the ability to increase the loadcell pre-load is great and easy to adjust requiring no tools to do so. This allows you to alter the pedal stiffness from something akin to a heavily servo assisted car system to that of a non-assisted go kart like super stiff pedal. Fanatec do say you should recalibrate after an adjustment however, I have found that you can get away with moderate changes without needing to do this. At this point I will also note that I purchased two damper kits for the pedals. Firstly, these are reasonably well constructed units and are certainly an improvement on the ones seen on the V2 units however, they are reasonably tricky to install carefully and require repositioning of the vibration motors. What they also require is numerous hex keys and in one instance to perform effective tightening you require two of the same size which not everyone will have. They do fit nicely though once you have them in position although I noted that you should check the full range of travel for clashes between parts before using them. For example, the motor mount on the throttle pedal effectively became the throttle stop until I adjusted it as it was hitting the top of the damper unit before the pedal was fully compressed. With regards to do the dampers actually add anything to the pedal feel? Well, yes, I particularly like the one on the brake pedal as it does actually feel as though you are actuating a hydraulic circuit and the range of adjustment on the damper is more than anyone could require. In this sense the whole brake pedal assembly represents a significant improvement over the V1 pedals. However, I would advise against fitting one to the throttle pedal. This is because I personally like my throttle to be light and responsive and the damper on even the lowest setting provides way too much damping for my liking and results in a lethargic throttle which resulted in the damper lasting 5 minutes before I removed it entirely. Moving onto the throttle and clutch is where you really notice the use of 4096 resolution compared to 1024. The throttle is much more precise and you can be far smoother with the application I found. The 4096 resolution is entirely wasted on the clutch pedal in honesty although the digressive mechanism does a good job to make it feel much closer to an actual clutch pedal when compared to the V1's. So now moving onto the bad things. I would have much preferred that the 'D-shape plates' be made of metal rather than plastic although they are reasonably good copies of my metal Tilton plates which I fitted to my V1 pedals. What really gets me though is that fanatec seemingly assume that you must use these plates with the pedal extensions since none of the dome screws provided are long enough to bolt them directly to the pedal stalks. This resulted in me using some of the extra provided countersunk screws to bolt them to the pedal stalks. This works fine, quite well in fact although I would have preferred to have been provided with long dome head screws instead. Next on the list is the vibration motors. This is simple. Plug the pedals in via USB and they wont work. Why? Because for some reason fanaleds is unable to communicate to the pedals in the same way as it was with the V1 set. This has resulted in a complete loss of the vibration effect. I have not tried to see how they would work when connected to the CSW wheel however I assume it is much like the V1's where the resolution is decreased and the vibration function is only a gimmick rather than actually connected to the game in any way. Lastly, it annoys me somewhat that they still haven't fixed the isolation problem where pressing one pedal might actually induce a small signal on another pedal. This is easy to get around using the driver software to calibrate minimums when other pedals are pressed but it shouldn't be a problem so many years since the V1's. All in all, they're a very impressive pedalset which is certainly worth the money and I'm glad I upgraded from the V1's but I would use this to describe how I feel. This is like me driving my MK1 MX-5 and then stepping into a MK2 MX-5. It's basically the same only with some fine tuning and refinement, you can tell it's better but fundamentally it's the same philosophy. But, if you're going from a Opal Corsa (G25/G27/G29 Pedals) to an MK2 MX-5 (V3 Pedals) the difference is massive and you'll love them. If you guys have any questions or would like any pictures I'm happy to answer/provide them Tommy Vandergucht Stephan Spantig
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Tommy Vandergucht
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Aug 19, 2015 2:12:54 GMT -5
I only ordered 1 damper so I'm happy with that after what you wrote. I thought of it like this, in the past the gas pedal used to operate a cable which was held back by a spring on the carburetor. Nowadays its a bit different but the feeling is still the same, so I don't really know why you would want a hydraulic feel on the gas pedal anyway.
So I am wondering about those vibration motors. How is it supposed to work? Do they go on at a certain amount of brake pedal pressure or do they go on when the abs activates or how does it work? Or how should it work? I heard iracing doesn't support it?
Do you do a lot of maintenance and cleaning on the pedals, I heard Bryan was complaining about this.
Well, since I come from t500 pedals which are on the Opel Corsa side of things I'm very much looking forward them!
Thanks a lot for the review, very nicely written!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2015 8:18:45 GMT -5
Tommy, I don't have the v3 (jealous ) but I can say something about cleaning. With my Elites mounted on the floor, I had to constantly clean them. Since inverting them ghetto style by just mounting them upside down and swapping the gas/clutch I haven't had to clean them more than once in a year. And even that probably wasn't necessary s they weren't dirty at all. If you can invert them, go for it.
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Aug 19, 2015 9:09:46 GMT -5
Christian Challiner, thanks for the up- and downsides of the new CSP v3 pedals. One question though: how is the customization for the pedals to the left and right? I have pretty wide feet, and atm I switched clutch and brake pedal (including springs) on my G29 pedals (so it is brake - clutch - gas). Is it possible to move the pedals to the left and right? Or even get rid of one pedal entirely?
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Post by Braith Morrow on Aug 19, 2015 11:25:55 GMT -5
Great write up Christian. I have V2s at the moment and the fluid in the damper has always leaked. Even in a replacement unit it had the same issue.
I'm strongly considering an upgrade to the v3s
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Post by Christian Challiner on Aug 19, 2015 17:48:21 GMT -5
Ok so to answer all the questions (thanks for the kind words by the way guys):
Q: I thought of it like this, in the past the gas pedal used to operate a cable which was held back by a spring on the carburetor. Nowadays its a bit different but the feeling is still the same, so I don't really know why you would want a hydraulic feel on the gas pedal anyway.
A: Yeah that's pretty much exactly how I thought about it too but I thought it would be interesting to try and since I can easily move the second damper to someone else there was nothing to lose by trying it. But yes, I don't understand the need for a hydraulic throttle pedal since nothing I can think of uses this method of throttle actuation and hence for most vehicles it's unrealistic.
Q: So I am wondering about those vibration motors. How is it supposed to work? Do they go on at a certain amount of brake pedal pressure or do they go on when the abs activates or how does it work? Or how should it work? I heard iracing doesn't support it?
A: The way I believe they should work is that using software to recognise wheel lock from the sim a signal should then be sent to the pedal to indicate lock up or to 'simulate' the effects of ABS when it kicks in. The reality of this is that it falls short in both departments. First off, the vibration is not nearly as strong as the actual feeling of ABS kicking in and secondly, iRacing doesn't support this and fanaleds doesn't seem to function as it did with the V1 pedals where this effect worked fine. You can plug the pedals into the wheel and set pre-determined positions of pedal travel at which the vibration motors will turn on but personally I find this useless as it's not actually giving you any benefit since for all cars (and speeds) this point will be different. However, I do miss that fanaleds no longer works with this feature as I did find it somewhat useful.
Q: Do you do a lot of maintenance and cleaning on the pedals?
A: No I do no maintenance whatsoever on the pedals aside from occasionally wiping the dust off them or the rubber build up which occurs due to me wearing shoes. Over the 5+ years of using my V1 pedals I did nothing more than replace the brake loadcell once and also re-grease the pedal push-rods once. The great thing about all the sensors which fanatec use is that they are all exceptionally rugged in their operation and is exactly the reason why the same kind of sensors (loadcells and hall-effect sensors see widespread industrial use. The loadcell relies solely upon the deflection of its own body and the extension/compression of a small set of strain gauges located on its surfaces, thus there really is no moving parts to go wrong. Likewise the hall-effect sensors rely on changing magnetic fields so it really matters not how dirty they get as they will still function perfectly. One thing I would say is that when it comes round to replacing the loadcell on these pedals it will be a much more difficult job than on the V1's. You could change a loadcell on the V1's in under 5 minutes once you knew how.
Q: One question though: how is the customization for the pedals to the left and right? Is it possible to move the pedals to the left and right? Or even get rid of one pedal entirely?
A: This really depends on a few things to be honest. If you want to use the standard pedal faces (the aluminium ones) then you can move them left-right-up-down approximately 20 mm from their starting positions with the exception of the throttle pedal. If you use the D-shape pedals you're restricted to up-down adjustment only albeit with a slightly larger range. You can obviously go further with this if you use the extensions (Which are useful depending on your mounting situation to achieve a flat pedal to your foot) but your options for lateral movement are still very limited. Unfortunately, whilst it is possible to disassemble the pedalset and replace the spacers on the pivots to move the pedals anywhere within their base I know from experience that this is a real pain of a job due to the way in which the pedals are assembled. There's a single screw on each side of the pedal base at the far end which is a real nightmare to access and in the case of my V1's was VERY close to hitting the pivot spacers themselves which made taking them apart tricky. Likewise trying to remove the rear pivot axis with all the springs trying to forcibly eject it isn't fun either. So to answer your question, YES it can be done but it has to be a bit DIY and it will be fairly time consuming to do.
Q: I have V2s at the moment and the fluid in the damper has always leaked. Even in a replacement unit it had the same issue.
A: I can't comment on this although I think the damper construction is much improved over the V2's but I'll keep an eye on it.
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Post by Mark "WiFI" Dyall on Aug 20, 2015 5:34:28 GMT -5
Nice write up Christian Challiner I'll be investing in a set of these as soon as I possibly can.
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