Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2015 3:36:15 GMT -5
Great write-up.. I have a question. Is it worth me spending the money over DFGT pedals??
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Post by Christian Challiner on Aug 21, 2015 15:47:09 GMT -5
Yes definitely!
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Aug 28, 2015 4:53:29 GMT -5
Christian Challiner, I question came up as I was driving for grocery shopping this morning. How about inversing the pedals? Is it possible with the delivered pieces or do I have to mount them myself somewhere else?
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Post by Christian Challiner on Aug 31, 2015 7:27:00 GMT -5
Sorry Stephan I only just saw this In short, difficult. Certainly not possible straight out of the box. You would first need to disassemble the pedal set in order to flip the entire clutch and throttle mechanisms (this was much easier on V1's as the linkage was identical so you only had to exchange springs). It's possible that you could do it though but you would need your own mounting solution that preferably sat above the pedals and bolted into them from above using the existing bolt pattern. A side mounted solution is possible but would require mounts similar to those sold for the Main PC pedals.
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Sept 9, 2015 11:44:52 GMT -5
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Post by Christian Challiner on Sept 9, 2015 11:59:02 GMT -5
try 3.5 on the big red dial and try 1 on the damper itself That gives quite a stiff feel but with a reasonably fast pedal return. Basically what you want to do is to use the red dial to adjust how far you want to press the pedal and the overall stiffness of it and use the damper unit to adjust how quickly the pedal returns. I found that you don't need much damper adjustment and even 2 made it return too slowly for my liking. Also the damper really only has 8 positions, if you keep turning it past the maximum nothing bad will happen you will just go back to the softest setting again.
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Sept 18, 2015 5:05:18 GMT -5
Christian Challiner: With the rumble motors now working, what do they mean? The description in FanaLED is quite simple "rumbles when brake lock detected", tested it with the Mustang and it felt like it's off the timing. I'm a hard braker, and the rumble motors ar just kicking in as soon as I'm turning into the corners. I don't know, feels a bit strange atm. Still trying to find out the correct brake stiffness for my likings. Currently at 5 on the red dial. But I'm getting there, slowly but surely.
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Post by Christian Challiner on Sept 18, 2015 8:25:02 GMT -5
Try moving the slider towards the left in the fanaleds options i found that having it all the way to the right in the old versions made it a bit excessive as you say. I haven't really played around with it much yet but if i get chance today then i will do.
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Tommy Vandergucht
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Sept 24, 2015 6:28:27 GMT -5
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Post by Christian Challiner on Sept 24, 2015 7:13:20 GMT -5
I'm using 219 at the moment so try that one first unless you use windows 10, in which cass the 226 might be better.
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Tommy Vandergucht
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"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car".
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Sept 24, 2015 7:47:06 GMT -5
I'm using 219 at the moment so try that one first unless you use windows 10, in which cass the 226 might be better. 226 works on my laptop. Another question. Do you manually calibrate your pedals or do you use that slider in the fanatec calibration software?
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Sept 24, 2015 9:03:32 GMT -5
Tommy Vandergucht: I don't use manual calibration, but I have no clue what the slider does either. Had it at 5 once, didn't feel any difference. And also 219 here. The sad thing is that the gas pedal rumble doesn't work in any game tested so far
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Post by Christian Challiner on Sept 24, 2015 9:04:30 GMT -5
Manual calibrate Tommy, much better than that auto slider thing Stephan gas pedal rumble isn't supported in fanaleds yet.
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Tommy Vandergucht
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"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car".
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Sept 24, 2015 9:46:05 GMT -5
Manual calibrate Tommy, much better than that auto slider thing Stephan gas pedal rumble isn't supported in fanaleds yet. So did you find out what the brake rumble does now? Does it activate at a certain brake % or is it really when the ABS kick in?
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Post by Christian Challiner on Sept 24, 2015 10:24:54 GMT -5
I'd say it's closer to the latter but it's not perfect as sometimes really slight amounts of pedal pressure can cause it to activate.
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Tommy Vandergucht
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"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car".
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Sept 24, 2015 18:28:17 GMT -5
Ok thanks for the tips. I just got back. Mounted the pedals on my wheel stand. Installed all the stuff and did some laps. Everything works, including brake rumble, its a miracle! But this is some different shit dudes, you really have to brake now haha (I come from standard t500 linear spring pedals, no loadcell or whatever). It's a bit weird, especially when I got a black flag in the pitlane for speeding, I wanted to stop, escape and restart. Normally I just pressed the brake fully whilst already pressing escape. Pressing the brake fully takes a bit more effort now! It's awesome to really have to work to brake hard, like in a real car. The trailbraking feels so natural now and looking back at the replay I could already see releasing the brake is much much much more smoother than ever before! I literally only did 2 laps but I know this will be good, i can feel it. It must be awesome in the cspec or the DP. The throttle is something to get used to also, the travel is about 2x as long as I'm used to which is strange, but realistic. I now installed the black spring on the throttle, but I felt that I was too slow getting on the power sometimes so I think I swap it back. But I'll try some more with this one tomorrow before I change. The thing that surprised me is that after 2 turns of getting used to it, I really had 0 problems with driving normal race lines, I even thought it was easier at corner entry because managing the brake is much easier. I wasn't fast yet, I still need to practice a lot and finetune the brake and throttle. But this makes it so much more fun, I wouldn't expect such a difference to be honest. Also, heal toe is just easy now! I could never do it with the old pedals, because you can't lean on the brake, and I can't do it in my real car, because the pedals are so offset, they don't want us to heal toe in citroens I guess. Now you can and with the big throttle pedal it's just a peace of cake and a lot of fun!
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Sept 26, 2015 11:32:25 GMT -5
Christian Challiner: I noticed you used throttle shape (TPS) 1 in todays 24h race. How come and what does it do for you?
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Joel Hafner
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Post by Joel Hafner on Nov 5, 2015 10:41:45 GMT -5
Since a couple of you guys seem to have upgraded: does anyone (located in Europe) still have CS V2 and looking to get rid of them?
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Post by Stephan Spantig on Jan 20, 2016 13:37:14 GMT -5
Christian Challiner , Tommy Vandergucht : Well, it's been a while, but somehow I still think I can't get the pedals to work for me properly. I run the auto-calibration and adjusted the signal for the brake pedal accordingly with the slider (I think it's around 80%), so that I'm at 90% brake pedal when pushing the brake pedal normally. iRacing calibration works similar, I push the brake pedal normally and give it an extra 5-10% than. Brake pedal stiffness is set to 4 on the red dial I guess, need to check that. Yet the brake pedal is almost always at 100% when braking with normal pressure (ingame control panel). Since gripTVs JP runs the CSPv3s aswell now, I'm currently watching him with a proper brake pedal of let's say 85-90% when threshold braking. So I'm thinking about doing a manual calibration with the Fanatec drivers, any advice or walkthrough? I'm usually the kinda guy that simply just plugs in things and runs it with what the drivers are giving me as default.
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Tommy Vandergucht
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"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car".
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Post by Tommy Vandergucht on Jan 21, 2016 6:02:22 GMT -5
Stephan Spantig Yeah Manual calibration is the way to go. Well the gas pedal and clutch are easy, just set the maximum to the maximum and the minimum to the minimum. The brake minimum is easy, so just the brake maximum that requires some thinking. I do it like this. Just press the brake and when you reach a point where you think this should be the maximum amount of pressure that I want to use for maximum braking, set that as your max. Now when you press the brake the brake range is from the minimum you set to the maximum you just set, if you press any harder than what you have set as the maximum it will be 100%. This way you can basically set the range of the pedal pressure you want for braking. It takes a bit of fiddling but after a couple of tries I left it where it is and now I never changed it...
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